Posted by: bschutzgruber | August 23, 2016

City Mouse…. Country Mouse…. part 1

August has been a month of fabulous fiber adventures in two very different settings!

Convergence, the Handweavers Guild of America‘s biennial international fiber arts conference, was held this year at the Wisconsin Center in downtown Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

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I’ve been to 3 Convergences over the years (in 2000 Cincinnati OH, in 2002 Vancouver BC, and in 2006 Grand Rapids MI).  Each was a feast of creativity and inspiration and this year was no exception.  Even as we walked into the lobby… art was everywhere beginning with HGA’s Ice Age Yardage Exhibit

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and the Center’s “security guard” to whom most of us did a double take when first entering the building!

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I took a 3 day workshop with Joan Berner – Successful Pattern Design for Handwoven Garments“You have the most beautiful handwoven fabric you could imagine – now turn it into the most perfect garment for you to wear!”

Joan is a fabulous teacher!  She moved smoothly between the 10 of us in the workshop, each of us with a different pattern, sewing experience, and pattern fit issues.  She gave clear explanations of pattern line and design….

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how to adjust a pattern you love but your body is no longer the same shape….

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what alternations are needed to get that perfect fit, plus amazing ‘tricks of the trade’ sewing techniques to make working with handwoven fabric easier.  (Getting sleeves to fit is NOT an easy task. No wonder vests/waistcoats/sleeveless tunics have been so popular over the centuries across the globe!)

Being in a convention center, our classroom was a typical partitioned ball room so in true fiber artist fashion, we created our own ‘extension campus’ (which we shared with the dyeing workshops) in the ladies restroom using the mirrors there to help with fittings.

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At the end of the 3 days I now have a muslin jacket pattern that fits me.  Next step will be to take it apart, lay it out, make the pattern incorporating all the alterations, and then figure out what I will weave or felt to make the jacket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Besides the workshops during the day, there were exhibits to see….

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evening activities with the fashion show….

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and the opportunity to see the garments up close afterward (Diamond Leggings by Carol James were made using an ancient fiber technique called sprang)….

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the Shuttle Race sponsored by Schacht Spindle Company complete with weight and measurement checks…..

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as well as a fascinating keynote presentation by Dr. Juan Hinestroza from Cornell University on his pioneering work creating multifunctioning fibers using nanoscale technology.

Members of the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild were well represented in the Mixed Bag Exhibit (multi media using any fiber arts technique) with art work by Bonnie Kay (High-row Glyphics), Kathleen Zasuwa (Ancient Graffiti: First Exhibition and Ancient Graffiti: Lines to Letters), and Jenny Schu (Uprooted 2).  Jenny also had a piece (Gypsy Leaf) in the Small Expressions Exhibit (small scale not exceeding 15 by 15 inches) which won the Edith Whiteman Award.

Early in the week, we had the added excitement of being evacuated for an hour due to electrical issues….

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but this gave the opportunity to see the Tapestry Exhibit a few blocks away at the Milwaukee Public Library, a building with inspiring architectural detail!

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From clear evenings with city skylines and dinner by the river…

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to funky street art….

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This was an awesome urban fiber experience!
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Posted by: bschutzgruber | July 28, 2016

Summer Demos and Fairs

In previous posts (Doin’ DemosWeaving at Cobblestone Farm, and Waulking and Art Fair and more) I’ve talked about how I enjoy demonstrating weaving, felt making, and other fiber activities.  It seems July has become a ‘demo & fair’ month.

Cobblestone Farm & the 4th of July

Back in February I had gotten the warp rewound and rethreaded on the 36″ Union Works Loom that is on the second floor of the house but did not have a chance to tie up the warp to start weaving until the July 4th Celebration.

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This would also be the first time I would attempt to weave dressed in the fashion of the mid 1840’s!

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The loom, she may be old (we’re guessing close to 100 yrs) and persnickety but YES…. she works – Yipee!!!

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Lessons learned:
1) Need to do a bit of improvement on the break latch.  It had a tendency to release just because it felt like it which brought some exciting moments!
2) One cannot weave at a floor loom while wearing a hooped petticoat!

Saline Celtic Festival

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This year at the Textile Tent we did not have “waulking the wool” sessions as Frances, our fabulous leader in Scots Gaelic song, has moved across the country.  BUT….. besides my weaving and the spinning demonstrations by Spinners Flock members we had an indigo dye pot going!

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I had some wonderful conversations with people with several enthusiastically trying their hand at weaving but the high point came at the end of the day.

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Four bagpipe & drum bands marched right next to where I was weaving
for their final gathering!

Ann Arbor Street Art Fairs

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It’s always HOT come the 3rd full weekend in July for the Ann Arbor Art Fairs and this year was no exception.  With teamwork the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild booth went up smoothly and we were excited to see that ‘our’ electrical box was one of the many power boxes around the city to receive a ‘make over’ from the Ann Arbor Arts Alliance’s Power Art program.

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The one next to our booth at the corner of State Street and N. University is the latest installation with artwork from Motawi Tileworks!

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Posted by: bschutzgruber | June 28, 2016

Preconceived vs Surprise!

Earlier this month I attended a mandala rug workshop with Australian felt artisan Martien van Zuilen.  ‘Mandala’ is Sanskrit meaning disk or circle.  Martien’s method is one of evolution (verse working out the design in advance) which really resonated with me and I learned several new ways of doing things.

Seeing my mandala come into being had some nerve-wracking moments – especially at the end of Day 1 when I began to regret my color choices!  BUT…. as the workshop continued my excitement grew as my design expanded, changed, and yes….. everything came together.  Thank you, Dawn Edwards, for arranging the workshop!

I am so pleased with the final result – ‘Celestial Navigation’.

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Posted by: bschutzgruber | May 29, 2016

From Flax to Overalls (or when first you don’t succeed….)

At the Northlands Storytelling Network Conference Hungarian storyteller Csenge Zalka shared a childhood memory of a cartoon/film of ‘Little Mole’s Pants’ showing the steps of making linen from flax. Even though I do not understand Hungarian, I was able to follow the storyline in Part 1.  Part 2 quite accurately shows all the steps that go into turning flax into a finished dyed garment as well as the resourcefulness of Little Mole and the other insects, animals, and pond-dwellers.

Enjoy!

Mole’s Pants Part 1

Mole’s Pants Part 2

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Posted by: bschutzgruber | April 27, 2016

Shape-shifting

As a storyteller I’ve worked with folktales for over 30 years and I’ve found that many tales change and evolve over the years – both in how they have been remembered/recorded and in how I tell them.   I’ve seen that same ‘change and evolve’ phenomena happen with my fiber creations too.  I find that I am constantly changing items I’ve made – transforming them from one thing into another…. just like the shapeshifter character in the old stories changes from one form to another.

Sometimes the transformation is easy…. like taking a ruana and using the fabric to make a vest or jacket.  Other times it’s more complicated – like when I removed  the sleeves from a fitted jacket I had woven to create 2 different vests.

Here are a few items that have evolved and changed over the years.

Bottom line…. change is part of life!

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Posted by: bschutzgruber | March 25, 2016

Who got you started?

I’m often asked how I got started weaving and my first response is usually a reference to being fascinated with the process since childhood…. but that doesn’t answer the question.  The answer actually is Jean Gordon.

I met Jean over 30 years ago when she came to a Detroit Story League meeting.  On the verge of retiring from teaching, she was looking at ways to expand her interests now that she would have more time.  When she mentioned that she wove, I made a beeline to talk with her as she was the first person I’d actually met who had a loom.  Jean is the one who connected me with Gloria Teeter.  Gloria offered beginning weaving classes in her studio/shop.  I signed up for the class…. and was hooked!  Jean was my introduction to basket weaving and spinning, connecting me with places where I could learn these crafts.

Avid weaver, spinner, knitter, storyteller, gardener and docent at the University of Michigan Matthaei Botanical Gardens, mentor/tutor at the high school where she had taught, Habitat for Humanity volunteer, Jean was always up for an adventure and road trip.  We would spend the next 25+ years traveling to storytelling festivals, conferences and events as well as comparing notes on our latest fiber projects.

Jean died on her 90th birthday in 2013 and I had the honor of helping her family sort through her storytelling and fiber related materials.  Her folktale and storytelling books were donated to the local library.  Her loom, spinning wheel, sewing machine, and all the other items that go along with them found new homes.  Her handspun yarns and dye samples came home with me.

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I knew I wanted to do something with the handspun yarns and this January I created a felt wall hanging In the Garden in memory of Jean.

In the Garden 29" x 39" felted wool fiber, silk fabric, wool yarn

In the Garden
29″ x 39″ felted wool fiber, silk fabric, wool yarn

So I ask you…..

Who got YOU started in an activity that you love?

 

Posted by: bschutzgruber | February 26, 2016

Weaving at Cobblestone Farm

Ever since I was a kid, my dream job has been to work at a place like The Henry Ford Greenfield Village doing weaving and fiber craft demonstrations.  Well… I’ve gotten my wish!  This fall and winter I have had the pleasure of demonstrating weaving as a volunteer at historic Cobblestone Farm in Ann Arbor.

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The house itself has a fascinating history.

The Cobblestone Farm Ticknor-Campbell home, completed in 1845, was originally a two-family home. Benajah Ticknor, a U.S. Naval surgeon, and his brother Heman Ticknor, whig​ politician and farmer, shared occupancy of this classic revival structure with their families from 1835-1860.  The William Campbell family then owned the farm from 1881-1972 where three generations worked the 225 acres and kept the house essentially unchanged for 91 years.  In 1972 the family sold the house and remaining 4 1/2 acres to the City of Ann Arbor. The house was in rough shape at this time as you can see in University of Michigan film student 1975 documentary Cobblestones and Memories. But 40 years of slow and steady work has restored much of the house.  Interpreted to reflect its mid-nineteenth century appearance, the sit​​e provides a view of past rural life in Washtenaw County Michigan.   Today the site is administered through the Ann Arbor Parks and Recreation Services with support from the Cobblestone Farm Association.​​​

Upstairs at the end of the hall they have a loom.

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It had been used in the past to demonstrate rag rug weaving but had not been in working order for years as the warp was a tangled mess.

Now there are times when you just has to ‘cut your losses’ and start over… and this was one of them!  I cut off the what had been woven and was able to unwind the remaining warp, stretching it down the hallway. Then slowly…… carefully…… 3 of us spent 4 hours winding it back on.

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From there I was able to thread up the heddles and reed to get things ready to start weaving.

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I did a web search to see what I could find out about the loom itself:
Union Loom Works – Boonville, N.Y.

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Union Loom Works existed from 1880-1940.  They produced looms intended for weaving rugs for home use or for sale as a cottage industry.  Oriental Rug Company purchased the patent to the Union Loom and I was able to download a copy of the manual!

Union Loom No36 Manual

 

Instructions for unpacking, taking the loom upstairs, explanation of terms, how to weave, how to get quality work, care of your loom, how to warp, designs you can easily make, are just some of the topics covered.

“At first glance, it may appear difficult to operate a loom, but as you get into it you will be surprised how easy it is after all.  A few things may bother you a little but as you become familiar with the loom, you will have no trouble.”

All the things you can use for your rugs (including old carpets and grain bags), how to make pillows (using silk and velvet rags), portières (door curtains), shopping bags and blankets are also described as well as advise on managing your weaving business.

“As nearly everyone has a supply of old rags, wornout clothing and other waste textile material, it is usually easy to obtain orders for custom weaving from you friends and neighbors as soon as you mention having ordered a loom.”
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“Signs – Place a large placard on a tree in front of your home, tacked to the house-front itself, if preferred, or put inside a front window.  This method is good anywhere, but especially good if you reside where there is considerable traffic past the house.”
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“You should make from 75c to $1.50 per hour”
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“Many customers who become proficient on their looms find lucrative and enjoyable employment showing others how to weave.  Sometimes they form classes, thus swelling their income by a considerable sum.”
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“As your custom trade develops, it may be advisable to have two looms….”

 The age of the loom at Cobblestone has not been documented.  Many of the Union Looms I found listed online date back only to the early 20th century.  But the basic design has not change really – all the elements of this loom could well have also been found on one in the late 19th century so having her up and running will give visitors a taste of yet another aspect of daily life from a bygone era.

And I’ve been told there’s another smaller loom down in the basement……..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted by: bschutzgruber | December 29, 2015

A look back at 2015….

With 2015 coming to an end, I took a look at my weaving and felting logs to see what all I did this past year.  This was a year filled with demonstrating weaving and felting, learning new skills, making a new loom, and creating items to exhibit, to sell, and to be auctioned to raise moneys for scholarships, plus gifts for a wedding and an international holiday exchange.  What a fibrously fabulous year this has been.
May 2016 bring new adventures to us all!

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Posted by: bschutzgruber | November 29, 2015

Say “Cheese…..”

November has been one of those “but it looked so doable on paper” kind of months!  Between storytelling performances, the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild annual Holiday Sale, receiving/processing 69 entries from 31 states for the lottery drawing of 12 Fringe performance spots at the July 2016 National Storytelling Network Conference in Kansas City, MO, making special order items to ship, plus traveling 400 miles in a Midwest snowstorm to attend a family wedding…. I’m just now sitting down to write-up some thoughts on a workshop I took at the beginning of the month.

On November 8th the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild sponsored an excellent daylong workshop “Styling and Photography for the Fiber Artist” with Elaine Palmer and local Ann Arbor photographer Mike Gould.

Elaine has 30 years of experience in styling, most notably with Nordstrom’s and Eddie Bauer. She did all of the styling, photography, post production in Photoshop and laid out all 208 pages for the 90 Anniversary Monograph of the Boston Weaving Guild. That included the artwork of 95 artists.

The morning began with Elaine asking the question “Why are you photographing your item?” She explained the differences between editorial, sales, website, printing/publishing, personal record keeping, and submission for a juried competition.  She talked about lighting, cameras, and the difference between shooting items flat and using a human model or mannequin.

Then using our own items and cameras, we set about trying different ways of styling….

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grouping items together…..

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and seeing how shadows can enhance or detract from the photo.

 

I’ve always used mannequins to photograph my garments so I wanted to try my hand at a flat layout.  Tissue paper was used to fill out the garment and pins to secure it to the white board.  This is MUCH more difficult than having the garment on a mannequin!

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In the afternoon, Mike Gould, took professional photos of our styled work.  We had garments, scarves, shawls, wall pieces, jewelry and purses which was a fabulous tutorial as Elaine and Mike explain what they were doing as we went along.  We learned tricks of the trade as we used fans to create ‘wind’ effect, or fishing line and tape to have the items look their best.

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Plus with Mike’s camera hooked up to his computer, we could what each photo clearly.

After the workshop, Mike used Photoshop for the final touches and to resize the pictures for use on the web, as photos or for juries.

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This was a fascinating day.  I learned a lot – especially observing how all the different items that people brought were photographed.

I will never look at catalog in the way ever again!

Posted by: bschutzgruber | October 28, 2015

Felting Thin, Thick, and Deja Vu

Over the summer I had three very different experiences with felt making.

Felting Thin
Summer began with the Michigan League of Handweavers biennial conference and workshops.  I took Illuminating Ideas in Felt with Sharon Costello.  A noted felt artist and teacher, Sharon’s art, books and DVDs are well-known and her idea of wet felting a 3 dimensional illuminated shape immediately caught my interest.

Sharon deftly demonstrated laying out the wool in 2 fine layers…

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and set us to making samples…. samples… and more samples as we practiced the finesse needed to create a woolen skin thin enough to be translucent yet strong enough to hold the shape.

My inspiration was the office window just outside our classroom.

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Felting Thick
Summer ended with a workshop in September with Gladys Paulus making felt masks of fantasy creatures. The workshop was organized by Dawn Edwards near Kalamazoo, Michigan.

My inspirations were a Steller’s Sea Eagle and a Griffin.

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We made patterns and resists,

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and laid out courser wool in 6 thicker layers to create a firm, solid shape.

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Felting Deja Vu
The 2015 AGWSD‘s Summer School was held at Moreton Morrel Agricultural College in Warwickshire, England. (blog post On the Road and Across the Sea)  As I walked around the campus and grounds I was filled with deja vu moments because I had been there before….. at the 2003 Summer School.

weavebioThe 2003 summer school was memorable for a variety of reasons.
–It was my first real experience with fine felting techniques.  (The Silk Route, taught by felt-maker and author Sheila Smith, focused on dyeing and felting with wool and silk fibers.)
–It was held in the most memorable room assignment I’ve ever had – the Post Mortem Lab (a.k.a. the morgue = Do not open the chest freezers!)
–It was one of the hottest summers in UK history with temperatures in the upper 30’sC (90’s F) and reaching 40C (104F) by the end of the week.

 

The 2015 felting course was held in the same location.  Stepping into the PM room during the ‘Walk About’ brought back a flood of memories of “Felting in the sauna with Sheila…”

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The back corner that had been my work station.  

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And how we creatively displayed our work back in 2003.

2003 display

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Some felt projects call for a light hand and gentleness
while others may take 4 days of hard work
but Thin or Thick…… I like to felt!!

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Barbara Schutzgruber - Storyteller & Weaver

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