Barbara Schutzgruber – Storyteller & Weaver

Sprang: An ancient method of constructing fabric
where threads or cords are intertwined and twisted over one another
to form an openwork mesh that has a natural elasticity.
Archaeological evidence from the Bronze age
indicates that Sprang predates knitting.

Back in 2016 I attended the Handweavers Guild of America biennial International Fiber Conference Convergence® in Milwaukee Wisconsin. It was here I saw Sprang for the first time. Carol James made an amazing pair of sprang ‘trousers’ which were part of the fashion show. I was intrigued and bought her book Sprang Unsprung to add to my fiber techniques library .

       

I was nudged by Sprang again in February 2023 when Andrew Johnson gave a Sprang workshop for members of the Online Guild of the Association of the Guilds of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers. 

The good news is my interest in Sprang was rekindled. The bad news…although Andrew’s explanations and Carol’s book are well written I realized that for me to learn this very spatially oriented technique I need to take an in-person workshop.

This year Convergence® was held in Wichita Kansas July 11-17, 2024.

I was already attending the National Storytelling Network conference “Together Again” (our first in-person conference since Covid) in Seattle from July 11-14 and would not be able to attend the main events but as I skimmed the offerings for the end of Convergence® I saw that a Sprang workshop with Carol James was being offered from July 15-17!! 

The main events for the NSN conference were scheduled Thursday through Saturday with Sunday being a 1/2 day. I left early Sunday morning to fly to Kansas City Missouri, drove to Wichita, and was ready for class Monday morning. I was disappointed that the Wearable Art Fashion Show Exhibit had been taken down Sunday evening (sigh) and the Market Place vendors had now packed up (bummer but good news for my allotted travel budget’s health).

Sprang – Day 1

There are 3 commonly used Sprang stitches: Interlinking, Interlacing and Intertwining.

Carol sent handouts in advance and her goal was that by the end of the 3 days we would all have solid understanding of and be comfortable doing a basic interlinking stitch. Her philosophy that any mistakes are simply ‘irregularities that are an invitation to look at structure’ was reassuring. She had lots of samples of things one can make using Sprang – bags, hats, scarves, fingerless gloves, even a wire vessel – and each day she wore a different Sprang garment.

Our materials fee included the loom for us to take home and Carol had already put a warp on it so we were off!

Using our fingers we manipulated the warp yarns, moving them forward, back and around creating the expandable cloth. The blue safety lines help keep track of the last few rows so we would not have to take everything apart if we got confused.

The nifty thing about Sprang is you make 2 things/items at once because twisting the top also twists the bottom. We worked our sample then undid the twists and started again. Repetition helps the brain remember what the hands need to be doing. After lunch we threaded a center cinch line, slipped it off the loom rods, folded it in half and sewed the sides together to make a small stretchy pouch.

The rest of the afternoon was spent winding a new warp onto the loom using wool yarn this time.

Sprang – Day 2

Carol brought in a pair of Sprang trousers/tights – marvelous!!! They were all the rage in the Middle Ages.

She discussed different ways to use crochet stitches to lock the center line.

And then we moved on to working with 2 colors of cotton yarn to make stripes and were introduced to reading patterns.

Sprang – Day 3

We were shown how to do several styles of decorative stitching to stabilize the center. Another 2 color warp was wound and a review of reading patterns for our next sample – making slits/holes.

In the afternoon Carol gave an excellent PowerPoint talk of the history of Sprang from ancient Greek, Roman, Egyptian, pre-Columbian North & South American cultures to Medieval Europe into the Renaissance and beyond. Sprang military sashes were worn well into the 18th century. Major-General Edward Braddock, who lay dying on the battlefield during the French and Indian War, gave his military sash to a young George Washington.

As our 3 days together came to an end Carol’s workshop goal had been achieved – we all had a solid understanding of and were comfortable doing a basic interlinking stitch. Plus we have patterns for making twists and transpostions/cables for future projects.

This was a great springboard into an ever expanding world of Sprang!
I made 2 mini water bottle bags and small pouch.
I think I’ll try making a pair of fingerless gloves next….