Barbara Schutzgruber – Storyteller & Weaver

February, March and April have been spent working on jackets using handwoven fabric sewn on the bias.

Take #1 Sapphire Blue Bias
In January I started working on a bias cut jacket. (See my previous post Yup… there’s a learning curve!  January 2017.)

As I let the jacket rest for a couple of weeks I noticed the fabric was beginning to sag and the sleeve seam was beginning to twist. I took the jacket apart and stabilized the fabric with a fusible interfacing. This gave the jacket more structure but it no longer had the drape the attached sleeve pattern needed. With the fabric already cut into the jacket shape there were limited options. I decided make a sleeveless vest.

Using the sleeve sections and left over fabric I was able to make a collar.

Take #2 Pebble Beach Bias
I wove another piece of fabric and laid out my pattern.

Because I had less fabric to work with than I had with the Sapphire Blue Bias there would be a center back seam. I liked how the lines came together BUT… I had a problem keeping the center back seam straight, plus there was a ripple/bunching in the seam at the top near the neck. Eventually I was able to smooth the seam but I needed to find a solution to the back center seam problem.

Take #3 Bright Blue Bias
and another warp was on the loom!

I used scrap fabric to see if the angle of the bias at the neck curve caused the seam to ripple.

I realized the problem with the brown jacket was not the center back seam but that I had not reenforced the neck opening properly causing the bias fabric to stretch! I used a piece of silk habotai as a stabilizer.  This kept the handwoven fabric from stretching, allowing the seam to lay flat.

Plus it would be flexible enough to be trimmed and tucked into the collar band.

Take #4 Peppermint Stripe Bias
and one more warp to confirm my solution.

The bias cut fits a range of sizes and it always has a nice flare and drape.
Now that I have the neck and back seam figure out I will continue playing!