Posted by: bschutzgruber | August 12, 2014

Weaving a Tablet Border

On August 8-9-10, 2014 the Michigan League of Handweavers Summer Workshops were held at Hope College in Holland, Michigan.  I received a learning grant from MLH to take the Tablet Borders Woven Simultaneously With Loom Weaving workshop taught by master weaver Inge Dam.

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Originally done on a warp-weighted loom, this type of weaving goes back to Iron Age Scandinavia (500 BCE – CE 800) and combines the use of tablets/cards to weave a band at the same time you are weaving fabric.  Inge’s book Tablet-Woven Accents for Designer Fabrics: Contemporary Uses for Ancient Techniques is a wonderful combination of history and how to.

There were 15 of us in the workshop.

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We arrived with a 6″ wide warp already on our looms.

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Day 1  (3 steps forward….. 4 steps back)

We began with winding out the warp for the tablets.  Buckets and reeds were used help keep the 4 balls of yarn from tangling.  34 tablets were threaded 1 yarn in each hole.

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Next we wound our warp between 2 clamps  – dropping 1 tablet with each pass until all 34 were in a pack on the table.

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At this point the words “Rubber bands are my friend!” became an important mantra to keep the pack together and in order as we now moved the tablets & warp onto our looms….

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The warp yarns were then threaded into the reed in groups without shifting the order of the tablets or dropping any of them onto the floor!

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The warp ends were tied securely to the front breast beam rod and water bottles were attached at the back to tension the warp.

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At this point we were all ready for a lunch break!

After lunch, life got much more exciting for me.  I forgot to rubber band the tablets when I loosened the front ties in an attempted to correct some tension issues and 1/4 of my warp yarns were pulled back through the reed and those tablets fell to the floor = NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!  Luckily the warp yarns stayed in the tablet holes and with Inge’s help, I got the tablets gathered together and the warp reattached to the front rod = whew!!!  The rest of the afternoon was spent untangling the mess of warp yarns I had made.  By the end of the day I finally had everything sorted out.  Time to quit and have a fresh start in the morning!

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Days 2 & 3  (much smoother sailing!!)

To weave the fabric (cream color) & tablet border (blue) at the same time, one shuttle is used to carry the weft across both sections.  I work the loom as I normally do and the cards are rotated by hand 1/4 turn with each pass, either forward or backward, depending on the pattern.  I soon got into a rhythm and was ready to start on the samples/exercises to embellish the tablet border.

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1) Making loops to attach fringes.

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(bottom)  2) Tassles   3) Twining   4) Beaded Edge  (top)

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(bottom)  5) Bead Brocade   6) Selvage Loops  7) Wraped Warps   8) Brocade  (top)

There were breaks throughout each day as Inge talked about the history of tablet weaving….

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explained the samples we would be doing…..

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and gave us a chance to see her fabulous woven garments up close.

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It was a fantastic set of days with a fabulous group of weavers!

TabletBordersMLH2014

 

 

 

Posted by: bschutzgruber | July 21, 2014

Video of the Waulking the Tweed

For some reason the video link for the waulking demo did not come through with the email notice for my last blog posting.

Here it is  http://youtu.be/5AEdIM43nC0

Posted by: bschutzgruber | July 21, 2014

Waulking and Art Fair and more…. oh my!

July has been a month filled with one event after another!  

Starting with demonstrating in the Textiles Tent at the Saline Celtic Festival which combines my 2 artistic loves…. stories and weaving.

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The weather was sunny and relatively cool for a Michigan summer so attendance was good for the festival.  Mary Underwood and CJ Kohoyda-Inglis organized the Textile Tent filling it with fabulous fiber folk so besides my weaving demonstration, there were members of The Spinners Flock demonstrating different forms of spinning and knitting.

One of highlights of our tent is ‘Waulking the Tweed’ with Frances Acar leading us in song.  ‘Waulking’ is the Scottish Gaelic word for fulling.  Woven woolen fabric needs to be ‘fulled’ when it comes off the loom.  Pressure, warmth and moisture creates tiny pockets of air that lift up the woolen fibers making the surface softer, thicker and more weather resistant.  Before the days of machines this was done by hand with friends and family in a community event – each bringing fabric that needed to be fulled.  If there was not a table long enough for the fabric, doors were often taken off hinges and set on the ground or saw horses for the work surface.  Songs were sung to set the pace, rhythm and coordinate movement.  By measuring the woolen fabric after every 2 or 3 songs controlled shrinkage can be achieved.  The songs are call-and-response with the leader singing the verses and everyone else singing the refrain.  Many of the songs were about how wonderful, intelligent or handsome a husband/lover is OR how that husband/lover is a no good rogue and lowlife.  (Some things haven’t changed over the centuries!)

Right on the heels of Celtic Festival came the Ann Arbor Art Fairs.
For 4 days more than 1,000 artists sprawl over 27 blocks of Ann Arbor as 4 separate nationally recognised art fairs are going on simultaneously.  The weather was fantastic and nearly 500,000 people came over the 4 days.  My work, along with 15 other guild members, was part of the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild booth in the State Street Area Art Fair.  It certainly ‘took a village’ or in this case a guild (16 sellers and 20 volunteers) – to build, man, and take down our booth.

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IMG_20140715_095055_809   IMG_5885 felt jacket silk purses small purses  IMG_5878 IMG_5843 IMG_5838

And finally…. the month closes out with the National Storytelling Network Conference in Mesa, Arizona filled with master classes, keynotes, workshops, storytelling concerts and swaps.  Here I’ll connect with storytellers from across the country and help with the 8th season of the Fringe Performances.

FireAndLight400

 

Posted by: bschutzgruber | June 30, 2014

Michigan League of Handweavers Biennial Fiber Show

I spent a lovely summer afternoon in Holland, Michigan for the last day of the Michigan League of Handweavers Biennial Fiber Show – complete with refreshments, awards ceremony and Ann Keister’s comments on jurying the show as well as a PowerPoint presentation of her work.

Surround Sound Vest won 3rd place in the Functional Fiber category and besides being presented with a lovely woven & beaded ribbon…. I got $75 in prize money too!!

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It was nice to see ‘Surround Sound Vest’ and my ‘Green Man’ tapestry, as well as all the other fabulous fiber works of art displayed so beautifully.  Hats off to everyone at MLH who worked so hard to put 80 items on display!!

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Posted by: bschutzgruber | June 1, 2014

The Great Tapestry of Scotland

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While visiting Aberdeen, Scotland this spring I was able to see an amazing tapestry exhibit – The Great Tapestry of Scotland.  This tapestry is composed of 163 hand embroidered panels, each 1 metre square, depicting the history of Scotland… from the Ice Age to the beginning of the 21st Century.

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The project was initiated by author Alexander McCall Smith, historian Alistair Moffat and artist Andrew Crummy.  Dorie Wilkie coordinated over 1,000 volunteer stitchers, of all ages and abilities, from every part of Scotland, who put in over 65,000 hours to hand stitch 300 miles of wool thread onto Scottish linen to create the world’s longest tapestry – 143 metres/156 yards.

Andrew Crummy’s design work is amazing – as you can see from the details found in the different sections on the opening panel.  (Color distortions are due to my camera and no flash allowed in the exhibit.)

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As he designed the main images for the panels – he also left sections open so that each group of stitchers could add their own individual touches to truly make this one of the biggest community arts projects ever to take place in Scotland.  Many of the stitch groups signed the bottom right corner of their panel.

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In the middle of the exhibit – I watched local stitchers work on a panel, inspired by this project, depicting the city of Aberdeen

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and was able to actually touch samples of  the linen and the stitch work used.

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The Great Tapestry of Scotland website has detailed information, background and history of the project, samples of the embroidery stitches used, a fabulous slide show of all the panels, plus an audio file telling the story of the making of the tapestry…. which I’ve been able to listen to while watching the slide show by having both windows open!

The exhibit it currently in Paisley (that panel was stitched at the town’s Thread Mill Museum by former mill girls) until June 8th.  It will continue to tour Scotland through the end of November with hopes to bringing it internationally.

Posted by: bschutzgruber | May 18, 2014

Samurai: Beyond the Armor Fashion Design Competition

Arriving early at the Detroit Institute of Arts for a talk ‘The Medieval Art of Swordplay’ by Jeffrey Forgeng who is the curator at the Higgins Armory Museum – Worcester Art Museum, I stumbled upon the creations by 10 local designers which had just dazzled the runway in an unusual fashion show at the DIA.  The fashion show was the culmination of a competition hosted by the DIA and Detroit Garment Group Guild (DG3), in which the designers were challenged to create outfits inspired by the DIA exhibition, Samurai: Beyond the Sword.  These garments were amazing!!!

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I may have missed the formal runway show but being able to stand next to these exquisite garments afterward as the models moved about the sunlit Rivera Court….

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To see them ‘up close’…. oh this was my lucky day!  Check out DG3’s site for photos of the all the entries.

 

Posted by: bschutzgruber | May 11, 2014

Thoughts for Mother’s Day

Dorothy_Brownstone Falls_WiscDorothy Anne Hanlon Schutz
Brownstone Falls, Wisconsin circa 1948

You were born in the wake of WWI
And the great Influenza Pandemic
The oldest of seven – your job was to be ‘the oldest’
To keep track of your brothers and sisters
To be the first and forge the trail

A bachelor’s degree in 1938 at age 20
A driver of convoys cross country in WWII
The first woman to head a government department
10 years in the work force

Charmed by a precocious ‘youngest child’
You gave birth to 5 children in 7 years
You experienced the loss of miscarriage
You buried a son who was only 20
And stood next to your oldest child
As she buried a son who was only 2

You organized people and stockrooms
You chaired committees
You drove us to all our activities
You raised us alone every summer for 6 years
So dad could get his masters

You were never a ‘Martha Stewart’ type
You were not a ‘warm & fuzzy’ mom
You were all business and analytical
You were no nonsense

You rarely yelled – you didn’t have to
That quiet, calm, icy voice was far more potent
Each word articulated with deadly precision

You never talked behind anyone’s back
Everyone always knew where they stood… for better or worse

The things that made me crazy growing up I now see in myself
I look in the mirror and see your eyes looking back
I hear your words coming out of my mouth
I can organize people and stockrooms

You made choices and moved forward
You never looked back asking ‘what if….?’
You gave what you were able to give

You gave me life.

Posted by: bschutzgruber | May 4, 2014

Surround Sound and Green Man links

Me and the computer have this love/hate relationship!

The links I used to access to the backstories of ‘Surround Sound’ and ‘Green Man’ worked just fine within the blog page…. but don’t seem to work in the email.  So…. I’m trying this one more time!  Fingers crossed this one works…..

Read stories behind the creation of these pieces
Surround Sound Vest

The Saga of the Green Man
part 1  –  part 2  –  part 3

 

Posted by: bschutzgruber | May 4, 2014

Surround Sound and Green Man make the cut!

Surround Sound Vest’ wins FUNCTIONAL FIBER 3rd Place award!

Surround Sound vest

83 pieces were entered into the Michigan League of Handweavers 18th Biennial Show.

The ‘Green Man’ tapestry was also accepted into the show.

Green Man_Barbara Schutzgruber

The exhibit at the Holland Area Arts Council, 150 E. 8th Street, Holland MI 49423, runs from May 17-June 29, 2014. (Regular hours: Monday-Thursday 10am-8pm, Friday 10am-5pm, Saturday 10am-3pm)

The reception, awards ceremony and talk by juror Ann Keister (retired professor of Art & Design at Grand Valley State University) will be on Sunday, June 29, 2014 from 2-4pm.

Read stories behind the creation of these pieces
Surround Sound Vest

The Saga of the Green Man
part 1  –  part 2  –  part 3

 

Posted by: bschutzgruber | March 20, 2014

Winter Blues Jacket revisited

I had a little jacket, it was old as can be…
Tralala lalalala lalala
What I’d ever do with it, I just couldn’t see
Tralala lalalala lalala
So I thought a little while
And made myself a vest in the very latest style
Tralalala lalala – Tralalala lalala
Made a vest in the very latest style.
–from a Yiddish folk song

What does a fiber artist do when she realizes that she has not worn the hand-woven jacket she spent months weaving and constructing?  She turns it into something else.  Or even better… ends up with 2 items of clothing!!

In 2012, I created ‘Rapunzel’s Winter Blues’ jacket

The finished jacket!!

when I took Michelle Moenssen’s workshop “Making a Jacket from Hand-woven Fabric”.  This was fabulous learning experience, as I had never sewn a tailored jacket (i.e. suit coat) before… let alone one from hand-woven fabric.  [click here for the slide show of the full process]

After 2 years… I realize I had not worn the jacket even once.  My life at this point doesn’t need that style of jacket.  But as any fiber artist who makes her/his own cloth for garments knows, one does not just toss away that much ‘time, sweat, and tears’; and though I do sell my woven and felted garments, this one has strong emotional ties for me so it would be like selling one of my children!  So… I began to think what could the jacket transition into that I would be more likely to wear?

I decided that remove the sleeves – transforming it into a vest – would be the simplest as I had no desire at this point to completely deconstruct the jacket.

Winter Blues jacket revisit

Now… what to do with the hand-woven fabric from the sleeves?  Mary Sue Fenner’s ‘One-of-a-Kind Jacket Trunk Show’ at the March 2014 AAFG meeting inspired me to make a second garment using lightweight commercial wool and the hand-woven fabric as accent panels creating this ‘Two for the Price of One’ vest.

2for1 vest   2for1 vest back
(pattern – Simplicity 2341)

I’m happy to say that both vests will be on the runway at AAFG’s Fiber Feast on April 5, 2014.

The song begins with an overcoat becoming a jacket – jacket to vest – vest to tie – tie to button – button to nothing – nothing to song and Simms Talback’s 1999 picture book Joseph Had a Little Overcoat is a Caldecott Metal winner so who knows… over the years to come this hand-woven fabric may continue to be re-imaged and transformed, giving it renewed life and rebirth.  Tralala lalalala lalala…..

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Barbara Schutzgruber - Storyteller & Weaver

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